An insider's view of the Connecticut dining scene
Oct 14, 2013
06:26 AMThe Connecticut Table
Sweet Reward: Doughnuts, Croissants Become Dossants in Branford
The town of Branford has at various times been known for its malleable iron, its grand Greek-style library, and its oysters and strawberries — especially strawberries. Branford was once the Strawberry Capital of New England (where Branhaven Plaza now stands was once fields of strawberries).
And now along comes the dossant. It was created in the kitchens of La Cuisine, the bakery/restaurant/caterer on E. Main Street in Branford. This makes Branford (once something of a culinary desert) the birthplace of the dossant in Connecticut — so could Branford become the Dossant Capital of New England? Branford a capital again? Branford known again for a food? For dossants?
Huh? For what? And how do you say it? (You say it, doe-sahnt.)
The dossant might be defined as another name for a cronut, but the inventors of the dossant didn’t get the original recipe for the cronut so it’s not quite the same. And unless you are a foodie who keeps up with culinary trends in New York, it’s conceivable that you aren’t familiar with the cronut craze. So listen up:
Last year, the Dominique Ansel Bakery in the swanky Soho section of Manhattan, introduced what it called the cronut — supposedly part croissant and part doughnut. A croissant is baked, a cronut is fried. A croissant has the shape of a crescent (that’s what croissant means in French), cronuts are shaped like a cupcake. That’s not the whole story, but it’s a rendering of fairly complex recipes.
The Ansel Bakery is a famous bakery and after a while people began talking more and more about the cronut, and lines formed outside the bakery, and scalpers bought the cronuts (at $5 each) to sell at inflated prices to people farther back in the line. Cronuts became a genuine craze, and Chef Ansel applied for a patent (which is pending) for the name and he appeared on TV talk shows.
Ben and Brendan Bloom, respectively father and son, owner and manager of La Cuisine, learned about the cronut craze (Ben avidly reads food blogs and keeps his ear to the gastronomic ground, as it were) and decided to have their chef create a La Cuisine version. Voila!