An insider's view of the Connecticut dining scene
Mar 6, 2014
01:10 PM
The Connecticut Table

Branford Bakery's 'Wonder' Bread: Healthy German Rye Called Volkornbrot

Branford Bakery's 'Wonder' Bread: Healthy German Rye Called Volkornbrot

Melanie Stengel/New Haven Register

An assortment of pastries at G Cafe Bakery in Branford.

On a shelf between the pumpernickel ciabatta and the sourdough in G Cafe Bakery on Main Street across from the Branford Green sits a dense cylindrical loaf of German rye bread called Volkornbrot.

This is no ordinary bread.

Rich in fiber, high in protein, low in fat, it’s so hearty and filling that just one slice can fuel you through the morning. That one slice, packed with nutritious grains and seeds, also supplies iron, calcium, potassium, and zinc, as well as a variety of B vitamins. Oh, and it’s tasty too, unapologetically rich and chewy, with a malty, sourdough tang.

Call it fitness bread; health bread; weight-loss bread. You can even call it wonder bread, with a lower-case “w” that is. Such is its renown that people throughout the country order it online.

It’s all part of the mission of Andrea Corazzini (above left) and his wife Kiara Matos, owners of G (short for German) Cafe Bakery to show the Shoreline, as Corazzini put it on a recent afternoon at the cafe, “what bread can be.”

Corazzini, who hails from Abruzzi in Italy, first walked into a German bakery Caracas, Venezuela in 2000. At the time, he was involved in the textile business.

He looked at the sheer variety of breads — there are 300 types in all. He sank his teeth into a crusty slice. It was “bursting with freshness and health,” said the wiry 47-year-old, his animated features softened by a dreamy look in his eye. Just then, he began to understand how German bread is the one food most missed by Germans living abroad.

Soon he and Kiara, a native of Venezuela, were running that same bakery while he traveled to Frankfurt and Dusseldorf to meet bakers and watch them work. Then, 10 years later, came the realization that Venezuela was too politically unstable to raise a family. His arrival in New Haven — Kiara had attended Albertus Magnus when she was 17 — followed.

In 2010, Whole G, or Whole German Breads, LLC, a wholesale bread-making factory, opened on Hamilton Street, with a staff of five, workdays beginning at 3 a.m., and Andrea and Kiara’s two kids, then 3 and 5, sleeping in the office.

Arguably, a gleaming bakery fitted out with the latest digital German ovens, mixers, and other equipment might have been enough to satisfy Corazzini’s passion to spread the gospel of German baking. Likewise, the rising popularity of Whole G’s breads for its organic ingredients throughout specialty markets and restaurants in New Haven and Fairfield Counties could have sufficed.

It didn’t. “Always,” Corazzini said, the smell of baking bread wafting languidly through the comfortable, sleek seating area, “we had a retail idea in mind. Always we wanted a face.”

Since it opened in September 2013, G Cafe’s philosophy has been simple and meticulously followed. Bake from scratch. No preservatives. No trans-fats. Emphasis on quality and freshness. Any bread not sold at closing time donated to a soup kitchen. Start again fresh the next morning.

See the full story at the Shorline Times online.

 

Branford Bakery's 'Wonder' Bread: Healthy German Rye Called Volkornbrot

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