An insider's view of the Connecticut dining scene
Nov 12, 2013
12:50 PM
The Connecticut Table

It's Classics Night Again at Blue Lemon in Westport; Lobster Thermidor Anyone?

It's Classics Night Again at Blue Lemon in Westport; Lobster Thermidor Anyone?

Blue Lemon chef and owner Bryan Malcarney; from the restaurant's website.

Ready for a culinary trip back in time? Thursday is Classics Night at Blue Lemon, the one night a year the Westport restaurant jettisons its regular menu in favor of a veritable Greatest Hits of Yesteryear (or any year). Oysters Rockefeller . . . Waldorf salad . . . beef Wellington . . . lobster Thermidor . . . duck à l’orange . . . chicken Cordon Bleu . . . Dover sole meunière. . . .

These labor-intensive dishes are rarities on menus today; having them all on the same menu is an event not to be missed.

They’re the kind of repasts enjoyed by Mid-Century business titans, glitterati and ad men like Don Draper and Roger Sterling at Manhattan restaurants like La Grenouille, The Four Seasons and The Carlyle (all of which have been featured on Mad Men).

Preparing this galaxy of greats is a serious challenge for the kitchen, however. “It is a real grind to turn it all out,” chef and owner Bryan Malcarney says, “but it's always fun to cook different dishes.”The menu also includes chicken Cordon Bleu, poached salmon, scallops wrapped in bacon and rack of lamb.

“People loved it [last year],” says Malcarney. “Oysters Rockefeller was a big hit, as were the soufflés.”

Oh yes, let’s not forget the dessert roster, starring oldies but goodies like Grand Marnier soufflé, mocha icebox cake, floating island and cherries jubilee.

What goes around comes around. These vintage treats are a hit with the younger generation, too. “My daughter loved the mocha icebox cake so much I had to make her one for her birthday,” Malcarney says.

Blue Lemon, 15 Myrtle Ave., 203/226-2647, bluelemonrestaurant.com.

It's Classics Night Again at Blue Lemon in Westport; Lobster Thermidor Anyone?

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