Apr 13, 2012
07:21 AM
Café Connecticut

Long Live The Goose!


Last week I went to The Goose, a newish restaurant in Darien, that I liked a lot. Many years ago, back when it was The Black Goose Grille, I spent many an evening here having drinks at the beautiful bar with the man who’s now my husband. That bar is still there, all gorgeous deep-dark mahogany and tiny beveled mirrors, as are many of the space’s other handsome features—stone walls and fireplace, Palladian windows, beautiful coffered ceilings.

But fear not, this isn’t a stuffy place—far from it. And the menu is one of the most appealing I’ve seen in a while: a wide-ranging roster at a time when many restaurants, whether due to economic difficulties (chicken breast, chicken breast, chicken breast), or a ruthless adherence to “locally farmed produce” and such, have much more limited fare.

In fact, we had a hard time deciding what to order—which is always a good thing, as there's plenty to look forward to on your next visit. We wound up sharing duck confit risotto and escargots Bourgignon from the small plates menu, a side of perfectly cooked asparagus and a roasted beet & spinach salad. The escargots were a little tame, and the very good salad could have used a tad more dressing, but these are quibbles. The risotto was fabulous. And we wish we’d ordered the lovely Maine Lobster Sliders that we saw on their way to another table.

The Goose may call itself an American Bistro & Bar—there are burgers, a prime rib French dip and fish-and-chips, for example—but it also caters to its well-traveled clientele with lots of French and Italian dishes—those escargots, , beef Bourgignon, tagliatelle Bolognese, osso buco, Mediterranean Sea Bass Acquapazza and steak frites with Bearnaise sauce. (When did you last have béarnaise sauce?!)

Long live The Goose! We'll be back soon.

972 Post Rd., Darien, 203/656-2600, thegoosedarien.com.

Long Live The Goose!

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