Jan 27, 2012
11:37 AM
Café Connecticut

Fairfield County Bakeries Beware, There's a Giant in Your Midst


They say man can’t live on bread alone, but after a visit to the brand-new Bakery Café at Wave Hill Breads a couple of days ago, we beg to differ.

Owners Margaret Sapir and Mitch Rapoport learned their craft from a master French baker in Vermont, who taught them how to stone-grind their own grains and other age-old baking techniques. They opened their “artisan micro-bakery” for business in Wilton in 2005, and moved to Norwalk last year.

We’ve been swooning over their superb all-organic breads pretty much since the beginning. The crusty and chewy Pain de Campagne quickly acquired legend status (“The best bread on the East Coast,” according to Jane and Michael Stern), and was followed last year by the matchless Ciabatta with Olives and Roasted Red Peppers, a whole-grain boule and four kinds of croutons, available at Whole Foods stores and at farmers' markets.

And now there’s a café, right on the bakery premises. The bakery operations are overseen by Michael Devlin, previously executive pastry chef at Universal Studios in Hollywood. Not that there’s a lot of glitz at the Bakery Café—just astoundingly delicious, old-fashioned goodness. Stop in for coffee and an almond croissant or a cardamom bear claw. Or try the delicately delightful gibassier, a Provencal pastry made with candied orange peel, fresh orange juice olive oil and anise. There are also delicious muffins, Danish and brownies made with pistachios, almonds and pecans. There will also be a soup and a daily sandwich made on that aforementioned swoon-worthy bread.

The Bakery Café at Wave Hill Breads, 30 High Street, Norwalk. Open 8 to 2 Tuesday through Friday, 9 to 2 on weekends. Closed Mondays.

Fairfield County Bakeries Beware, There's a Giant in Your Midst

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