Jul 17, 2012
02:27 PM
Café Connecticut

The Art of the Meal

 

I had the pleasure of dining at Paragon on Saturday night—it had been over a year since I’d been to Foxwoods and I was particularly looking forward to revisiting the casino/resort’s showpiece restaurant on the 24th floor of Pequot Tower.  We were not disappointed.  

With culinary wizard Scott Mickelson in the kitchen, magic ensues. The exciting new menu has Small Plates, Starters, Sides and Big Plates, but we were immediately intrigued by the Small Plates offerings. They were separated into five categories—Beef, Ahi, Duck, Noodles, Columbia River King Salmon and Crab—of three dishes each. Under Crab, for example there were Peetytoe crab salad, Dungeness crab cake and soft shell. Each small plate is $14-$16 (Noodles are $12), but if you order a selection of three, it’s $35, five and it’s $65, which is a pretty good deal.)

From the Small Plates, we tried the black noodles with lobster, lemon and saffron (lovely), ahi sashimi on a block of salt, with crunchy little wasabi peas (wonderful); and the Stacker, a tender little hunk of beef with haricots verts, Béarnaise sauce and an egg over easy (succulent). We also sampled an escargots appetizer (out of the shell and perfectly cooked) and an appetizer special of seared foie gras. The latter—served with candied onion jam and thyme-spiked vinegar gastrique, atop toasted brioche—was one of the tastiest taste thrills ever.

I won’t bore you with the rest, and we didn’t have dessert (we were too full of other wonderful things), but suffice it to say, Paragon is worth a trip from anywhere—and Scott Mickelson’s at the top of his game.

(One parenthetical complaint: It was hard to believe the clothes some diners showed up in. The tables were better dressed! IMHO shorts and tees should have no place in a restaurant like Paragon. Come on, people!)

The Art of the Meal

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