Oct 15, 2012
10:04 AM
Café Connecticut

A Shellfish Pleasure at the Dressing Room


The front room at Dressing Room was packed yesterday, and the two waitresses obviously had their hands full. So, with a fond look over our shoulders at the fire crackling in the fireplace, we headed for the quieter back room. We’ve actually grown a little tired of the unchanging brunch menu here. (God knows it’s all very culinarily correct—everything on it is house-cured, pasture-fed, fresh-picked or line-caught—but it’s always the same and there are no specials. Maybe the chef has Sundays off?) The cozy ambience here is perfect for a fall day, however, and it’s lovely to walk off your meal afterward in adjacent Winslow Park.

Besides, we were on a mission, answering the siren call of Beacon Style oysters. This is the dish originally created by Waldy Malouf for the Beacon Restaurant in New York: oysters roasted in their shells with shaved shallots and fresh thyme butter, served on a bed of rock salt.

The dish is certainly no bargain—at $16 for three, that’s more than $5 per not-huge oyster—but for me, it’s one of life’s sublime taste thrills, and I’ve given up trying to resist them.

After that, I had a serviceable Farmhouse Omelet (cheddar, mushrooms, onions and wilted greens), with a side of roasted fingerling potatoes in a cast-iron frying pan alongside. John had eggs Benedict on a drop biscuit with smoked ham. I wish there were more non-breakfast choices (and if you want bread with your meal, you have to pay $3 for it), which seems like a bit much), but I’m told the other menus are changing, so maybe we’ll see something new for brunch soon. Here's hoping.

Just leave those Beacon Style oysters right where they are, no matter what!

Dressing Room Restaurant, 25 Powers Court, Westport, 203/226-1114, dressingroomrestaurant.com.

A Shellfish Pleasure at the Dressing Room

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