by Valerie Schroth
May 16, 2013
11:25 AMTable Hopping
A Taste of Mediterraneo
Imagine yourself in a sleek new restaurant in a cool new urban hotel. But looming large through a 40-foot wall of windows just outside this urban hotel there's an impressive waterfall. It’s the Norwalk River wending its way to Long Island Sound and, just beside it, a train occasionally comes tooting by—not your everyday room with a view.
We’re happy to say that little else about Mediterraneo, at Hotel Zero Degrees, is ordinary either. The food stands up well to the extraordinary surroundings. Mind you, we’ve only been there once, and that was for lunch, but we left eager to come back. We concentrated on appetizers: grilled calamari with shaved fennel and “Easter egg” radishes; a substantial lump crabmeat salad with avocado and ginger vinaigrette; and—especially pleasing—grilled sucrine salad with Maytag blue cheese, bacon, dried cherry tomatoes and a tasty buttermilk dressing. (Sucrine is another name for sugar lettuce.) For dessert we shared an awesome tiramisu with coffee; hot milk for the coffee was served alongside.
Main dishes include pan-roasted American red snapper, Hidden Fjord organic salmon, wood-roasted Amish chicken, brick-oven pizzas and a Kobe beef burger with Manchego cheese. One entrée that particularly intrigued us was sea scallop ravioli with roasted cauliflower. We’ll definitely be trying that next time around.
Presiding in the kitchen during the opening weeks is executive chef for all the Z Hospitality Group restaurants Albert DeAngelis. (Mediterraneo siblings include Sole in New Canaan, Acqua in Westport, and Terra and another Mediterraneo in Greenwich, as well as Aurora in Rye, N.Y.) Chef de Cuisine Ethan Morse takes the reins after that.
Mediterraneo, 353 Main Ave., Norwalk, 203/229-0000, zhospitalitygroup.com.A Taste of Mediterraneo