Reviews

Title Issue
Altnaveigh Inn, Storrs

Altnaveigh Inn, Storrs

Old houses are forever on the verge of slipping over the fine line that divides quaint from run-down. What they need is dauntless love and constant attention.

November 2008
Harvest Supper, New Canaan

Harvest Supper, New Canaan

The dining room is small, the kitchen is minuscule and the menu consists solely of little plates, but one way or another Harvest Supper makes a big impact. Some say it's too cramped for comfort and godawful noisy to boot. Others say, "Who cares, when the food is to die for?"

October 2008

Caseus, New Haven

Dinner in a cheese shop? Sounds a bit limited but not when you've read the menu. Crab and grapefruit salad with frisée, shallots and pink grapefruit dressing. Roasted organic Bell & Evans chicken with cured lemon and braised vegetables. Fried oysters, zucchini soup, duck, fish, steak. Caseus (kay-see-us) appears to be a fromagerie with illusions of grandeur. We shall see.

October 2008
Craftsteak, Ledyard

Craftsteak, Ledyard

With its glittering new MGM Grand tower and klieg-bright star-studded entertainment lineup, Foxwoods Casino boggles the senses with wow appeal. In contrast, Craftsteak is an almost Zenlike oasis of calm.

September 2008

Johnny Ray's Milford

Before hip and cool there was glamour and sophistication, the epitome of which was the supper club seemingly designed (judging by old movies) to provide tables for Fred Astaire to tap-dance on while William Powell and Myrna Loy, aka Nick and Nora Charles, slid into an upholstered booth the size and shape of an enormous clamshell, to exchange rapier-sharp barbs over a dry martini.

September 2008

Saltwater Grille, Stamford

Real estate's golden rule-location, location, location-applies to restaurants, too, but as stock offerings dutifully remind, it is no guarantee of future performance. 183 Harbor Drive in Stamford is a case in point.

August 2008

Terra Mar Grille, Old Saybrook

Family-owned, with a star-studded history (Frank Sinatra slept here, the movie Parrish starring Claudette Colbert was filmed here), Saybrook Point Inn has character but wears it casually over the shoulder, greeting each day, week, era with the freshness of a new wind on the foresail.

August 2008

Brasserie Molliere, South Norwalk

Years ago there was a French restaurant called Côte d'Azur on Washington Street in South Norwalk. Provençal in look and flavor, with coq au vin on the menu and a glass urn of apricots and cherries in liqueur on the bar, it was charming, affordable and beloved by a loyal coterie of fans who missed it sorely when it closed to make way for celebrity-driven, short-lived Bamboo.

June 2008
Bistro du Glace and Patisserie, Deep River

Bistro du Glace and Patisserie, Deep River

June 2008

Max Fish, Glastonbury

It's big and bold, fun and all about fish. It's Max Fish in Glastonbury, the newest eatery in The Max Restaurant Group.

May 2008
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