Feng Asian Bistro & Hibachi, Canton

 

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But the main attraction is the hibachi meal and it’s flawless. Even the soup, which elsewhere is often wishy-washy or too salty, is multinuanced and flavorful, with tiny enoki mushrooms floating on top. As promised, we each receive two garlicky shrimp and a heap of fried rice made with freshly cracked eggs.

I order filet mignon medium-rare. The pretty young woman to my left orders hers well-done. (She’s from Michigan and teaches third grade. I know because hibachi dining is low-tech Facebook.) Our filet mignons are served simultaneously, both precisely as ordered, hers well-done, mine medium-rare. Both are diced into cubes easy to pick up with chopsticks. (Forks are also provided.) I love the subtle sauce lightly spicing the meat and the separate-but-different herbal broth infusing the lobster tail alongside. When did the chef do that? I was watching his every move.

My friends order sirloin steak, sea scallops and Chilean sea bass. Each is meticulously prepared and served with a flourish—at the same time as my filet mignon and lobster tail. When it comes to precision, this chef-with-the-flying-hands outdoes the Rockettes.

Desserts, unabashedly rich and playful, include a slab of chocolate ice cream between two big fat chocolate cookies, a custard-filled crêpe torte, which sounds light but isn’t, and an amazing creation that should be a surprise but if I don’t describe it, you won’t order it: a lollipop tree with bubblegum whipped cream. I mean, would you? Let’s just say it’s very pretty and involves delightful little cheesecake bites. The bubblegum’s merely a garnish, but one taste and I am a kid on roller skates.

Feng Asian Bistro & Hibachi
110 Albany Tpke., Canton (860/693-3364; fengrestaurant.com)

Monday through Thursday 11:30 to 10, Friday and Saturday till 11, Sunday till 9. Wheelchair access. Major credit cards. Price range: appetizers $6 to $14, main dishes $17 to $28, desserts $7 to $8.
 

Feng Asian Bistro & Hibachi, Canton

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